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And Everything Is Watched Over By Bealje, The EarIn summer 2022 I felt drawn to Varanger National Park, a huge, pure wilderness on the Varanger Peninsula in the uttermost North of Norway. There is nothing but green meadows, where reindeer herds browse, deeply carved valleys as relics from the Ice Age, and vast stone deserts in higher areas, which are called “čearru” by the Sami people. But this “nothing” is extremely precious. Solitude, the omnipotence and power of nature, fascinating light impressions and so much beauty on a grand scale as well as in the smallest details – this was one of my most beautiful tours in the high North. By the way, Bealjáidčearru or Bealje, in English "the Ear", is a huge mountain ridge that goes from West towards East through the National Park. In Norwegian it's called "Skipskjølen", because it resembles a ship's keel. With 636 meters it is the second highest mountain on the Varanger Peninsula, and its characteristic summit watches silently over the landscape. |
Start at Stjernevannet
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First Fresh Drink
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Reindeer fence
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First valley crossing
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The Skipskjølen mountain ridge appears
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Over the mountain ridge to the other side
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Short break in the Transportdalen
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Skipskjølen in the background
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Austere landscape
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Heimdal cabin or Kjølstua
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Ascent to the Skipskjølen summit
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Distinctive skyline
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The cairn at Skipskjølen is 9 feet high
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Mighty landscape
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Solitude
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Expanse
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Skipskjølen in the evening sun
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Back at Heimdalhytta
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I am approaching the source area of a river
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It's everywhere flowing and gargling
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